We’re pleased to announce the USA premiere screening of I Colori Di Antonio, our documentary about Antonio Liverano directed by Gianluca Migliarotti of O’Mast fame. The screening will be on the 3rd of April at the SVA Theatre in Chelsea at 6.45PM, followed by a Q&A with the director and refreshments afterwards. It’s always fun to connect with people interested in tailoring. Antonio is one of the legends of the industry and it’s been a pleasure to tell his story to the world.
Hand sewn lapels - the beauty of hand sewn lapels is not only evident in how soft they can feel but also in their appearance as they create elegant curves and bellies along the lines of a jacket (Often referred to as lapel roll). One of the most striking features of a well executed, hand made jacket is this beautiful three dimensional aspect (roll) of the lapels, that are usually absent from machine stiched/fused jackets (lapels). A skilful/experienced coatmaker’s perfectly executed close pad stitching on the lapel along with maticulously calibrated tension in each of the stitch not only yield the intended look (shape) and feel of a lapel but more importantly ensure they sit on the body of the jacket properly especially when worn -‘flat’ against the Chest, rolling up near the buttoning stance (NB: some bespeakers choose not to have prominent roll as a matter of personal preference, nevertheless…). A set of elegantly shaped lapels that sit properly on the wearer can make or break a jacket in my opnion and they are an essential element of a handmade jacket/coat. For this reason, many of the high-end suit makers such as Brioni, Attolini, Oxxford, etc. also insist on having hand sewn lapels (even though labor and skills-intensive) as a foundation in all of their jacket/coat making. (including off the rack jacket/coat production, as they have been traditonally).
The lapel depicted in the old picture above is an awsome example in my opinion. Simply classic, simply stunning!
Most people think of suits as being British, Italian, or American - the first being “structured,” the second “softly tailored,” and the third a “sack cut.” But what a suit looks like can be much more complicated than that. There can be curves and lines throughout the jacket that give the wearer a certain look. Here are some of the main details that make up a suit’s silhouette.
Shoulders: Every jacket hangs from the shoulders. The more padded the shoulders are, the more horizontal they’ll be; the less padded, the rounder and more sloped (relative to the wearer’s natural shoulders). The shoulders then meet at the sleeve at what’s called the “sleevehead.” This area can have a prominent ridge running along the crown of the sleeve (making it a roped shoulder); a light ridge, but still generally running flat (a natural shoulder); or be knocked down and have a low profile (a bald shoulder).